Choosing the movement for your watch was obviously a long time affair. I bet you could not decide between Omega Speedmaster and Tudor Black Bay, until you decided to cross your eyes. And then, when your order arrived, you spent five minutes deciding whether to remove the bracelet or not, and finally left it on your watch. Big mistake.
Although case and the dial are your face, strap is your handshake. It is the accessory that actually touches your skin. But more than that, it tells the story of your life. Perfect, flawless watch head is a perfect investment, financially. The worn-out strap is the one for investment in your experience.
If you want to tell such a story, you better opt for leather. But here is the thing you have to be aware of when buying leather strap. It should be vegetable-tanned full grain. Whenever you see something labeled as genuine leather, you need to run miles away from this deal as fast as possible. This is plywood in the skin world.
For an average mid-level executive with decent salary, Horween shell cordovan strap is the top-of-the-range product. It comes with all the pros and cons of the material: half a year is needed for it to fit your wrist properly and become really comfortable. And it shines in an absolutely priceless way. Standard office diver watch turns into the cigar lounge accessory. All you should know about is that leather does not like water. By August, your hand would stink just like your dog in July after you’ve both swam in the sea.
Metal is the tank of accessories world. For example, Oyster bracelet on a Rolex Submariner or Explorer is nearly indestructible. Its aging process goes mainly in terms of texture – those polished center links will get scratches in the first couple of times you leaned on a brick wall.
However, no need to worry – as these scratches are called “character”. There are ten-dollar polishing cloths to fix even the deepest scratches, but having some of this kind guarantees that you wear the bracelet rather than keep it in the safe. The only problem is weight – by 5:00 PM the bracelet gets as heavy as a chain shackle. Plus, arm hairs pulling is the problem with cheaper links, so micro adjustments are a must-have.
Now it is the time for the most controversial choice – NATO strap. Purists say that nylon straps are not to be used on a luxury watch. It is as inappropriate as wearing tuxedo with sneakers. And in some way, they are right. But when it comes to aging process, nothing can compare with a classic NATO.
First of all, the strap is able to absorb your sweat, your sunscreen lotion and maybe even a cup of coffee. With time, khaki or olive NATO will get colored in a unique shade of your life. It will become soft and frayed on edges. It will become tough. It is the safest strap – if one spring bar breaks, your watch will stay on your wrist thanks to the second one. NATO has saved many Panerai owners from the panic attack in the metro. The only problem is “bump” – additional layer of fabric under the watch will move it from your wrist, making you look like someone who strapped a hockey puck on his wrist. For a thin guy, it will be ridiculous.
So which one to choose? Honestly, it depends on how much care and maintenance you can provide. Leather strap is a relationship. Metal strap is a marriage of convenience. NATO is a rebellious period in your life.
My advice? Use all three alternately. Put the leather on for client presentation. Wear metal bracelet on Fridays. Put NATO on for hiking and music festivals. Watch without changing straps becomes boring. Wrist deserves the same amount of variety as your closet.